What tricolore means in Italian cooking
When an Italian dish carries the word tricolore in its name, it refers to the three colours of the Italian flag: red, white and green. The combination appears across Italian cuisine, from pizza to pasta dishes, but nowhere is it more straightforward than in this simple salad.
Insalata tricolore brings together ripe tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil leaves. There is no cooking involved, which means the quality of each ingredient matters. When those three components are good, they need very little else.
Choosing your ingredients
The tomatoes carry the dish. Roma or cherry tomatoes are typical choices for fresh salads in Italy. During summer months, British supermarkets and greengrocers often stock ripe plum tomatoes or vine tomatoes that work well. The key is ripeness: choose tomatoes with a fragrant scent that give slightly when pressed.
Tinned tomatoes will not work here. This is a fresh salad, and the texture of canned tomatoes is entirely wrong for the purpose.
For the mozzarella, buffalo mozzarella has a softer texture and richer flavour than the cow's milk version, owing to the distinctive character of buffalo milk. Most larger supermarkets now stock it, often labelled as mozzarella di bufala. Standard mozzarella is perfectly acceptable if buffalo milk varieties are unavailable or outside your budget.
Fresh basil is essential. Dried basil has a completely different character and will not produce the same result. A living basil plant from the supermarket will give you enough leaves for several salads and tends to last longer than pre-picked packets if you keep it watered.
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Preparing the tomatoes
Some recipes call for peeled tomatoes, which gives the salad a more refined appearance. This step is optional but straightforward if you want to try it.
Score a small cross in the base of each tomato with a sharp knife. Lower them into boiling water for roughly ten seconds, then transfer immediately to a bowl of iced water. This process preserves the firmness of the tomato flesh. The skin will now peel away easily.
Once peeled, cut each tomato in half lengthways. You can scoop out the seeds and watery centres if you prefer a neater presentation, though this removes some flavour. Many cooks skip this step entirely and simply slice the tomatoes into rounds or wedges.
If your tomatoes are good quality and the skins are not tough, there is no obligation to peel them at all. Slice and arrange as you like.
Assembling the salad
Arrange the tomato pieces on a serving plate. Tear or slice the mozzarella and place it among the tomatoes. Scatter whole basil leaves over the top, tearing larger ones if needed. Some variations include a small pinch of oregano for added depth.
Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. A little sea salt and freshly ground black pepper is typically all that's needed. Some versions include a splash of balsamic vinegar, though traditionalists may consider this unnecessary.
Many cooks find the salad is best served at room temperature rather than straight from the fridge. Cold mozzarella can lose some of its creamy texture, and chilled tomatoes may taste muted. If you have prepared everything in advance, take the plate out of the fridge twenty minutes or so before serving.
This works as a starter, a side dish, or a light lunch with good bread. It is at its best in late summer when British tomatoes are in season, though decent imported tomatoes can produce good results at other times of year.
The appeal of insalata tricolore lies in its restraint. Three ingredients, minimal preparation, and the colours of Italy on the plate.
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