What Makes Italian Blue Cheese Different
In Italy, blue cheeses are called erborinati, a term derived from the Milanese dialect word for parsley, referring to the herb's dark green stems. The name describes the distinctive veins running through the cheese, created when cheesemakers introduce mould to the curds before ageing begins.
While blue cheese is made across Europe, many consider Italy to produce some of the finest examples. The most famous is Gorgonzola, which takes its name from a town near Milan in the Lombardy region. Though often described as a village swallowed by urban sprawl, Gorgonzola remains a distinct municipality.
Gorgonzola: Italy's Most Famous Blue
Gorgonzola comes in two main styles. Dolce is the younger, creamier version with a milder taste, while piccante is aged longer and has a firmer texture with a sharper flavour. Both are made from cow's milk and carry Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) status, meaning production must follow strict traditional methods in designated areas.
The cheese works well in cooking, particularly in pasta sauces and risottos. It also pairs naturally with pears, walnuts and honey when served on a cheeseboard. Most UK supermarkets stock at least one type, and specialist cheese shops will usually carry both varieties.
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Other Regional Cheeses Worth Knowing
Beyond Gorgonzola, Italian cheese enthusiasts often appreciate several lesser known varieties.
Monteblu comes from Val Chiusella in the Piedmont region, in the foothills south of the Alps. It is made primarily from cow's milk with a small amount of goat's milk added, giving it a slightly tangy edge that sets it apart from pure cow's milk blues.
Castelmagno is perhaps the most distinctive of all. This cheese holds DOP protection, meaning it can only be produced in three communes in the south western province of Cuneo: Castelmagno, Pradleves and Monterosso Grana. Unlike Gorgonzola, Castelmagno is not primarily classified as a blue cheese, though it can develop some veining naturally during ageing. The result is subtler and less uniform, with the cheese valued more for its complex flavour and crumbly texture than for its mould development.
The History of Castelmagno
Records of Castelmagno production are believed to date back to at least the 12th century. Historical accounts suggest it was originally made as a form of currency, exchanged for grazing rights on the alpine pastures where the cows grazed. The cheese is made mostly from cow's milk, sometimes with a small proportion of sheep's milk.
Three grades exist based on ageing:
- Standard Castelmagno, aged at least 60 days
- Prodotto della Montagna, made with milk from higher altitudes
- Di Alpeggio, the rarest type, produced only during summer months using milk from cows grazing above 1,000 metres
Finding authentic Castelmagno in the UK can be difficult. Specialist Italian delicatessens and online cheese retailers are your best options. Expect to pay more than you would for Gorgonzola, as production is small scale and demand often outstrips supply.
When storing any Italian blue cheese at home, keep it wrapped in waxed paper rather than cling film, and store it in a warmer part of the fridge such as the salad drawer, though you should check the temperature zones in your particular model. This helps maintain texture and prevents the cheese from drying out or absorbing other flavours.
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